So, I was one of the guys who were able to fix the QC35 by bending the switch prongs back. After that, I was still keeping the headphones in my backpack with pressure on it, the only change I make was that I was putting them in the case reversed, as seen in this picture:
This way I was able to keep all the cables in the case, but prevent them from pressing against the switch. And it worked, for about 5 months, then the QC35 stared to develop the same issue again. As i'm gathering some experience in fixing the switch (for myself and a few others others..) I fixed it in a few minutes, but I see that the prongs are getting very weak, so they'll most probably break if I'll have to fix this one more time. So putting them in the case like above is apparently not sufficient if you keep them in the backpack with constant pressure on them. So I had another idea:
I had some IKEA FIXA stick-on floor protectors laying around (originally meant to be sticked on table legs to protect them from scratching the floor), so I took two big ones, cut a circle out from the middle, and sticked them on top of each other and into the case like above. So far so good... It keeps the case away from the switch even if I apply pressure on it.
Also, I did some research about the swich, in case I'd need to replace it, it's a C&K JS207011SCQNR switch: https://www.ckswitches.com/media/1422/js.pdf It seems Digi-Key and Mouser has them in stock, so in case it breaks or the tiny spring falls out etc. you can order a replacement.
PLEASE don't tell me how to fix it myself. This is the problem itself. It is also my mistake to purchase a BOSE product. I will never buy BOSE again even they offer a free upgrade. I will circulate this issue to my friends and family and their potential customers. BOSE exactly understand their mistake, obviously they don't care about it.
I have had my QC-35's a few years and they just started not turning off. You mentioned instructions and picture to fix them myself, but i could not find them in the post. can you direct me to them
I wish there was a way to sticky this or something, it would help so many people...
Text instructions here: https://community.bose.com/t5/Around-On-Ear-Headphones/QC-35-I-is-Turning-On-By-Itself/m-p/168080#M3... credit: @Kivi-Kingas
I have a different story to relate. As can be seen I tried a self cure by jiggling the switch a bit. Afterwards they worked rather randomly. I dealt with UK customer support using Whatsapp, I explained problem, pointed the person to this forum to show it was a big problem. Didnt expect much, we ran through the reset procedure a couple of times to be extra sure. Now then , these phones were replacements for another set which I had lost the NC after software upgrades. Due to this I had no proof of purchase , only the original receipt. I didnt have much hope.
OK back on track, I gave the CS person the serial number and my account details (didnt realise I had an account) They said (Whatsapped) we'll arrange an exchange order for a brand new set. I think somewhere in the transcript that will be MK2s. This took place over the course of a few days, some days I had to wait all day for a response , there was also another problem in that I was not in UK so should have dealt with local bunch, but I couldn't do that because I don't speak the language. So, it was agreed I would post them off when I was in UK a couple of weeks later. They emailed me a returns label, I dropped it off on a Tuesday, tracked it to Belgium on the Friday, apparently new ones arrived the following Tuesday or Wednesday. I dont know what they have sent as I am abroad again, but they did reiterate that they would be brand new, so in two weeks time I should be able to let you know what I got.
Basically I had no trouble and the CS were great , and all via Whatsapp. Incidentally the build date of my phones was April 2017 so a smidgen under 2 years old but I only had them for about 15 months before the fault cropped up.
I guess I was lucky but I was never offered a special price on a new pair or given any form of runaround. Would I buy Bose again ? jury is still out on that one, wait to see what is waiting for me in UK.
So all of you KEEP PESTERING EM as they will give replacements.
@RScottIt's halfway back in this post somewhere. Perhaps in the 30s or 40s? I have not personally looked myself but it is in this post.
Taking the switch apart per the instructions and photos, bending the prongs, AND cleaning the contacts worked for me.
Bending the switch prongs did not initially work, so I bent them a little more AND wiped the circuit board contacts with a cotton swab, then it all worked...so hard to say if it was just bending, just cleaning, or both. In my case, there did appear to be some light oxidation on the contacts. Thanks @Kivi-Kingas
I tried the prong fix ( https://community.bose.com/t5/Around-On-Ear-Headphones/QC-35-I-is-Turning-On-By-Itself/m-p/173964/hi... ) and it worked for a few days then the problem came back (I even tried doing it again without success). I then tried another fix suggested by another user (don't remember where) which was to leave the two top-cover screws lose by a few turns -- that fix worked for about a month. Then the problem returned full blown: I could not turn it off even for a few seconds, it would turn off and immediately back on. I took out my multimeter and did a few checks -- there is absolutely nothing wrong with the power switch, it is in perfect working order, no bad contacts of any sort. I then did some research and found that the CSR chip next to the power switch is a BGA chip (google it) -- I have seen plenty of computer boards where these start having bad contacts with the board due to either heating or shaking/movement, so I immediately tried to put some pressure on the red area:
With the power switch in the OFF position and the device powered on (due to the issue in question) I noticed that putting a slight pressure in the marked area turned it off as it should, then releasing the pressure caused it to power itself back on. That to me says that the issue is likely that the pressure over the power switch actually caused a bad contact on the chip's BGA terminals which can't really be fixed by doing anything to the switch or even replacing the switch altogether (could likely be fixed by reflow of board which is a much bigger ordeal).
I didn't want to deal with Bose so I decided to make 'low tech fix' for a high tech device -- but before anything I need to put up a few WARNINGS:
-the steps below will likely void any warranty in effect and/or any chances of getting a replacement for free or at a discount price.
-the prong fix may actually work for you if it's just a prong issue (which wasn't my case) and having my headphones for years well past warranty (about 50% of the time in the case), so you should definitely try the prong fix first.
-I also recommend trying to leave the two top screws a few turns from tight to see if it helps first.
-Lastly, the below is mostly useful if you can't turn it off at all -- from what I can tell if you unplug the battery and plug it back without the issue present you may need to plug the USB charging cable in order to get the device to turn on again (granted it is always with the device anyway). So if your problem is happening sporadically you should keep it in mind that you may need the USB cable (and some charging device) to get the bose to power on when you need it.
That said, here's what I did:
Opened the LEFT side cover and located the battery power connection (circled in blue):
Used the soldering iron to disconnect it:
Used the same soldering iron to make a small hole (blue circle) in the case (to pass two small wires thru):
Soldered small piece of wire to battery wire and put a piece of electrical tape over it:
Soldered another piece of wire to the board terminal (where battery wire was connected) and passed the wires thru the hole:
This is what it looked on the other end -- for the 1st version I used a female pin wire to allow easy connection/disconnection between the two wires (I covered the end of the other wire with solder to make it easier):
Here's how it connected:
Once connected here is how I tucked it under the padding (without touching the ear):
This worked fine until the small switch I ordered arrived, then for the 2nd/final version (to make it simpler and more seamless) I got the small switch soldered to the wires and put a drop of super glue to attach it to the cover:
The padding and cloth obviously cover the switch+wires so it is invisible and doesn't touch the ear but I can easily toggle it on/off over the cloth. Because my problem is so severe I can flip my new switch even while the bose switch is at the OFF position and it immediately turns on (and will never turn on by itself again when I turn it off on my own switch).
If nothing else goes bad with the board I am hoping to get at least a few more years worth of use of the headphones.
Hope this can help someone with similar/severe issue like mine.
I finally received a replacement from Bose. I reached out to them through Twitter by replying to one of their posts. Someone from "BoseService" sent me a direct message and they opened a case for me. A customer service rep then called me and he was pushing that they can replace it for a fee but I insisted on escalating the issue and he said that he will call me back in 2 days. I waited but I did not receive a call so I reached out to "BoseService" on Twitter and the person on the other end apologized and he opened a replacement request. I shipped my broken headphones to them and after a few days, I received a replacement.
My QC 35 was out of warranty, I've owned it for 18 months before this issue started and they replaced it with a QC 35 II.
To those who do not want to go the DIY route, stay persistent!