@CarpoI highly doubt this is related to the firmware update, likely just a coincidence of happening recently after updating the firmware -- this is my opinion after reading everything in this thread. No, Bose does not fix/service the headphones. If your device is under warranty they will replace it. If your device is not under warranty they will likely offer a discount price on a new one, but many people here have reported that escalating/being persistent can get you a free replacement (you may have to call several times/days). There are many do-it-yourself fix and work around suggestions on this thread if you feel like trying (and reading thru it). Good luck.
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I tried the prong fix ( https://community.bose.com/t5/Around-On-Ear-Headphones/QC-35-I-is-Turning-On-By-Itself/m-p/173964/highlight/true#M32130 ) and it worked for a few days then the problem came back (I even tried doing it again without success). I then tried another fix suggested by another user (don't remember where) which was to leave the two top-cover screws lose by a few turns -- that fix worked for about a month. Then the problem returned full blown: I could not turn it off even for a few seconds, it would turn off and immediately back on. I took out my multimeter and did a few checks -- there is absolutely nothing wrong with the power switch, it is in perfect working order, no bad contacts of any sort. I then did some research and found that the CSR chip next to the power switch is a BGA chip (google it) -- I have seen plenty of computer boards where these start having bad contacts with the board due to either heating or shaking/movement, so I immediately tried to put some pressure on the red area: With the power switch in the OFF position and the device powered on (due to the issue in question) I noticed that putting a slight pressure in the marked area turned it off as it should, then releasing the pressure caused it to power itself back on. That to me says that the issue is likely that the pressure over the power switch actually caused a bad contact on the chip's BGA terminals which can't really be fixed by doing anything to the switch or even replacing the switch altogether (could likely be fixed by reflow of board which is a much bigger ordeal). I didn't want to deal with Bose so I decided to make 'low tech fix' for a high tech device -- but before anything I need to put up a few WARNINGS: -the steps below will likely void any warranty in effect and/or any chances of getting a replacement for free or at a discount price. -the prong fix may actually work for you if it's just a prong issue (which wasn't my case) and having my headphones for years well past warranty (about 50% of the time in the case), so you should definitely try the prong fix first. -I also recommend trying to leave the two top screws a few turns from tight to see if it helps first. -Lastly, the below is mostly useful if you can't turn it off at all -- from what I can tell if you unplug the battery and plug it back without the issue present you may need to plug the USB charging cable in order to get the device to turn on again (granted it is always with the device anyway). So if your problem is happening sporadically you should keep it in mind that you may need the USB cable (and some charging device) to get the bose to power on when you need it. That said, here's what I did: Opened the LEFT side cover and located the battery power connection (circled in blue): Used the soldering iron to disconnect it: Used the same soldering iron to make a small hole (blue circle) in the case (to pass two small wires thru): Soldered small piece of wire to battery wire and put a piece of electrical tape over it: Soldered another piece of wire to the board terminal (where battery wire was connected) and passed the wires thru the hole: This is what it looked on the other end -- for the 1st version I used a female pin wire to allow easy connection/disconnection between the two wires (I covered the end of the other wire with solder to make it easier): Here's how it connected: Once connected here is how I tucked it under the padding (without touching the ear): This worked fine until the small switch I ordered arrived, then for the 2nd/final version (to make it simpler and more seamless) I got the small switch soldered to the wires and put a drop of super glue to attach it to the cover: The padding and cloth obviously cover the switch+wires so it is invisible and doesn't touch the ear but I can easily toggle it on/off over the cloth. Because my problem is so severe I can flip my new switch even while the bose switch is at the OFF position and it immediately turns on (and will never turn on by itself again when I turn it off on my own switch). If nothing else goes bad with the board I am hoping to get at least a few more years worth of use of the headphones. Hope this can help someone with similar/severe issue like mine.
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